Baseball-centric Dunedin hits it outta the park as vacation paradise

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DUNEDIN, Fla. – We had heard about the legendary sunset celebrations atop the Hi-Fi Rooftop Bar at the Fenway Hotel in Dunedin, Fla.

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An air horn signals to patrons that the sun is about to set, then there’s a drumroll, followed by a “crash-crash-crash” of cymbals as drinks are hoisted into the air.

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That’s how the participating staffers described it to me, anyway. I’d missed the nightly ceremony by maybe four seconds, having been distracted moments earlier by the coffee- and cocoa-rubbed 10-ounce venison tenderloin that arrived at my table downstairs at the hotel’s signature restaurant, the HEW Parlor & Chophouse.

Sometimes, it’s about prioritization, and grilled meat always lives at the top of my list.

One sunset miss aside, Dunedin is where visitors can do it all. And then, because it was so good the first time, do it all again.

The small city (population of about 40,000 people) along the Gulf Coast some 35 km from Tampa International Airport will be familiar to Blue Jays fans for being the MLB organization’s spring headquarters for more than four decades.

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The area boasts oodles of stuff to see and do at the ballpark and away from it – and it’s all a breeze to access.

Whether on feet, a golf cart, a bike, the Jolley Trolley, or one of the free app-based transportation services set up around town, getting to and from restaurants and attractions in Dunedin is almost laughably easy. (My rental vehicle stayed parked for most of my four-day visit.)

It bears mentioning that the vibes here are about as chill as the ice-cold craft beer found at the many breweries within the small but mighty downtown core.

The first clue that the livin’ is going to be easy for the next few days is the giant pink flamingo art piece inside Tampa’s main airport terminal. The next indication is the Kir royale cocktail served as a special welcome to guests as they check in at the Fenway, a built-in-1924 Jazz Age icon.

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Pack your sunscreen but leave your troubles behind because Dunedin effortlessly exudes that peaceful, easy feeling. There’s a certain optimism in the air, like that found at the Jays’ spring training stadium, TD Ballpark.

Come for the baseball and beers, stay for the surprising food scene and overall variety, and consider the Mardi Gras party in February and Highland Games in April, two other reasons to come to Dunedin, a low-key paradise that’s deserving of year-round attention regardless of whether the batter’s box is occupied or not.

For those keeping score at home, we’re saying that Dunedin is a winner, and worth far more than nine innings of your attention.

BATTER UP!

While Dunedin’s citrus industry is not what it once was, the other squeeze play in town continues to bear fruit.

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The Grapefruit League, comprising half of Major League Baseball’s official pre-season competitive circuit, has been an annual springtime tradition here since the Toronto Blue Jays joined MLB via league expansion in 1977 and set up shop at the corner of Beltrees St. and Douglas Ave.

More than four decades later, the Jays are the only big-league team to have never changed where they play their spring training ball.

“I’ve seen huge growth (in Canadian attendance),” said Shelby Nelson, the Blue Jays vice-president of Florida operations, who has been stationed in Florida for the past 16 years and has been with the Blue Jays for 24 years.

The Toronto native said renovations to the ballpark in 2020 – including a new video board, drink rails and additional seating – have only improved the atmosphere.

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 “It’s just enjoyable being around the crack of the bat,” Nelson said. “It’s a great vacation spot.”

The 8,500-seat stadium is intimate and interactive as players often mingle with fans, signing autographs before and after the game. During my visit to the park one sunny Sunday, Jays stars Vladimir Guerrero Jr. and George Springer were seen peeking out into the concourse, cracking jokes with stadium employees and fans before the game.

“You get to feel that you’re a part of the game instead of watching,” said Mary Anderson, the Jays’ Florida business operations specialist. “It’s the first piece of spring that everyone gets. It’s something where you’ve just got to come down to really get a feel for it.”

At the park, Canadians and locals alike can feast on Canuck mainstays such as Labatt Blue, poutine, and peameal bacon on a bun, or Florida favourites such as gator bites and grouper tacos.

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The sweet spot for Jays fans to circle on their calendars is from mid-February, when pitchers and catchers report, through to April, when the big-league club heads north to Toronto for regular-season play. However, baseball is available all summer in Dunedin with the Jays’ single-A affiliate, the Dunedin Blue Jays, taking over at TD Ballpark (beginning opening day on April 5), and Jays rookie ball in the Florida Complex League a few kilometres away at the shiny new player development complex.

Keep an eye out for a rumoured single-A team promotion this season involving a bobblehead wearing a kilt as an homage to Dunedin’s Scottish heritage.

TD Ballpark is in a residential area and there is no on-site parking, but free shuttles operate on game days. For those able to walk, the park isn’t far from anywhere in the downtown core.

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WHERE TO STAY

The Fenway Hotel shares no relation to the storied ballpark that houses Toronto’s American League East Division rival in Boston.

Aside from being close to TD Ballpark – less than 10 minutes on foot – the hotel’s only baseball connection is that the players have been known to occasionally drop in for dinner and drinks.

Part of the Autograph Collection within the Marriott portfolio, the Fenway was built in 1924 and delivered plenty of non-baseball hits as an icon in the Jazz Age. The Grand Lady of Dunedin is steeped in musical heritage, including serving as Pinellas County’s first radio station, WGHB.

Today, the boutique property offers proximity to famous Clearwater Beach, is an easy stroll from downtown Dunedin’s shops and restaurants, and boasts all of my favourite hotel amenities including enthusiastic staff, in-room ceiling fans, a pool, several electronic outlets, and, most importantly, a comfortable bed. The jazz radio that plays inside the guest rooms upon arrival is a nice touch.

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Look for the old speakeasy entrance where three knocks and a password would get you in during the Prohibition Era.

Guests can putter around town on bikes offered by the hotel.

There is live music offered from Sunday to Friday.

WHAT TO EAT

According to my unofficial count, there are no fewer than 50 “drinks, eats and treats” establishments recognized by the Downtown Dunedin Merchants Association.

Bearing in mind that the downtown core is neatly contained within a few blocks and entirely walkable, that’s a whole lot of selection. The scene is fiercely independent and just as impressive, there is very little duplication in terms of food offerings. Even the breweries – no fewer than eight – are unique in their settings and offerings.

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Here are the places we checked out, in order:

Dunedin Mix: This new concept food hall incorporates boutique pop-up shopping and nightly entertainment. The place is owned by a son and mother with Montreal roots.

Dunedin Brewery: Recognized as the oldest distributing microbrewery in the state, this place is in the heart of the action on Douglas Ave. If ever there was the perfect beer to sip on a hot spring day in downtown Dunedin, it’s the brewery’s well-appreciated apricot peach ale.

Woodright Brewing Company: Mention this brewery in a former woodworking shop to a local and you’ll likely be greeted with a knowing nod of approval. It’s a cozy place that delivers quality, award-winning beer.

Caracara: Proprietor Shane Bittaker and executive chef Traci Bryant have deep roots in the city and their fingertips have been on several downtown ventures, including this Latin-Asian fusion gem. I tucked into delicious lump crab nachos and even better falafel bao, the fluffy goodness striking the perfect spicy-sweet balance. Start or finish the night at super-casual Jack Pallino’s next door.

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The Honu: “All the cool people find us,” chef and co-owner Kimberley Platt said of her establishment tucked just off the beaten path. Not sure how I located the place, then, but I digress. This was undisputedly my favourite Dunedin haunt, a treasure of a tiki bar with great attention to detail in terms of decor, and maybe the best Mai Tai on earth. The menu is massive here, with cocktails galore, a rum bar and a full complement of Polynesian-inspired fare. Platt and wife Lisa hope patrons can enjoy “something they’ve never experienced before. Something truly unique.”

Jazz brunch at The Fenway: Musician Jeremy Carter brings the tunes as part of the newest addition at the HEW, from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sundays. Order the beignets with berry jam and don’t feel bad about it.

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HEW Parlor & Chophouse (Fenway): The name is a creative nod to the hotel’s original architect, Herman Everett Wendell and “hew” also means to cut or chop. The architect behind the cut of meat that was prepared and served as my dinner got it right. I can’t stop thinking about that perfect venison. Try the Deway’s Purple Heart cocktail, with $1 from each purchase going to the Wounded Warrior Project.

Hi-Fi Rooftop Bar: The best rooftop bar in town offers unobstructed views of the Saint Joseph Sound and is the ideal spot for sunset gazing with a drink in hand.

Tukro Coffee: Opened during the pandemic by Dominick Briganti and his wife, Tami. Dominick, a retired firefighter, witnessed the World Trade Center attacks on Sept. 11, 2001. They serve epic Counter Culture coffee and run a bed and breakfast upstairs.

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Dimitri’s on the Water: Located on the famous sponge docks in Tarpon Springs. Watch for the specials, many of which are extremely traditional Greek dishes not typically found at every Greek restaurant. I was encouraged to try the lahanodolmades – stuffed cabbage rolls with ground beef and rice, cooked in a creamy lemon sauce and served with lemon potatoes. No regrets!

Tarpon Springs Distillery: Quality spirits are in abundance and ditto for entertainment. The establishment regularly hosts award-winning blues acts on its backyard stage.

Hog Island Fish Camp: Restaurateur Walt Wickman owns three area establishments, including the Olde Bay Cafe down at the marina, the Water Oak Grill in nearby Safety Harbor, and Hog Island, right up there among Dunedin’s most popular places to eat. The fresh gulf seafood is the star of the show, including grouper and Hogfish, the latter of which I thoroughly enjoyed in the unpretentious setting. Wickman said Dunedin is a tight-knight place where businesses band together to succeed. “There’s no weak link here because I don’t think a weak link would last,” he said of the strong food scene. “It’s all independent, literally family-owned restaurants.” For dessert, the key lime pie is a can’t-miss.

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Wild Iris Cafe: Labatt Blue is on the menu at cafe owner Jody Pucello’s splendid downtown space, featuring scratch-made breakfast and lunch offerings available on the outdoor patio under a canopy of live oaks. Pucello, a Syracuse, N.Y. native, has Blue Jays ties, having served in clubhouse management roles with the team’s former minor-league affiliates, the Syracuse Chiefs and the St. Catharines Blue Jays. The quiche is as thick as the oaks on site at the Wild Iris, which has been the location for three recent movie shoots thanks to Pucello’s work as a part-time actor.

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WHAT TO DO 

Nature lovers will be endeared by the serene waterfront settings found at Honeymoon Island and Caladesi Island, where biking is popular. The same crowd will likely dig Pinellas Trail, a 72-km former rail corridor stretching from Tarpon Springs in the north to St. Petersburg in the south. The trail runs directly through Dunedin’s downtown, adding to its lively atmosphere.

After working off those calories, put a few back on by visiting one of the many craft breweries bunched within the core. Sip on that killer apricot peach ale at Dunedin Brewery and then walk a few steps to Woodwright Brewing Company, located in a woodworking shop. Several of the breweries in town are owned by women, including 7venth Sun Brewery, which makes a fantastic creamsicle wheat ale.

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Don’t leave town without swinging by the Tarpon Springs Distillery.

Husband and wife owners Barry and Lisa Butler make spirits from scratch on site using premium malt grains, and the results are truly smooth and memorable.

“We’re trying to make the highest quality spirits that we can with integrity,” Barry said. “Control everything and make spirits of the quality that people just can’t get anywhere.”

Among the distillery’s award-winning offerings is the Gramling Woods rye malt whiskey, which was awarded a double-gold medal at the 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

There’s a fantastic outdoor space, concert area and rye bar, and the cocktails are as fun as they are tasty.

The distillery has dedicated its Anclote Rum to the Bahamians of African descent, who were the original spongers of Tarpon Springs.

For more information on Dunedin and its surrounding areas, go to visitstepeteclearwater.com.

HOW WE GOT THERE 

A direct flight from Toronto’s Pearson International via Air Canada to Tampa International Airport, followed by a 35-minute drive to Dunedin via an Avis rental vehicle.

ishantz@postmedia.com
X: @IanShantz 

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