Anthony Gismondi: Tracking the cork purists who’ve embraced screwcaps

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It’s been more than two decades since we first mentioned twist-off or screw cap closures in this column. At the time, there was widespread opposition from producers in Europe, North and South America — and more than a few skeptical consumers — but most of that resistance has long faded. Screwcaps are here to stay, and in the last decade, they have made significant inroads at the highest levels of wine.

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There will always be a place for cork-finished wine; in fact, some producers who switched to screwcaps are returning to cork due to the significant strides made by cork producers to improve their products. This is especially true for those wines that need time in the bottle. The time-honoured slow oxygen ingress into the bottle via the cork has always been considered the perfect aging scenario.

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That said, corks can still be faulty, and screwcaps have come a long way, especially when it comes to allowing air into the bottle, so the choice is not all that clearcut. I thought this topic was especially relevant, with so many Italian producers in Vancouver this week for the wine festival, most of whom said they would never sell a bottle of wine under a screwcap but have now changed their mind.

The change of heart is worth looking at because, in the end, while the screwcap was all about preventing the sale of corked wines or wine tainted with the dreaded 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA) and its mix of mildew, mould and damp cellar scents, it was quickly embraced by the most critical sector of wine buyers: women. As it turns out, few non-professionals can identify a TCA-tainted (corked) wine when encountered in a restaurant or at home. Still, any excuse not to use a corkscrew was good enough to set off a rush to buy bottles with the easy-to-use twist-off top.

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At the time, New Zealand and Australia, fed up with faulty corks, were leading the charge, but another angle was to be played. The finest corks can have a negative effect on delicate white wines, and I, for one, would be happy to see the end of corks in all but a handful of whites. After 40 years of tasting, it is clear to me that shoving a piece of cork bark into the neck of a wine bottle can easily alter the flavour of a wine. Even the most expensive and expertly made corks tend to shave off, or at the very least, dampen the top five to seven per cent of the most delicate aromas and flavours in any wine. While that may be useful for big, rich, alcoholic reds, it’s simply not acceptable when it comes to the delicate, finely nuanced aromas and flavours of white wines.

That brings us back to the Italians. If anyone’s white wine needed a screwcap, it was Italy. As if they need any other reasons to make the switch, consider that in 2022, Italian white wine production totalled 58 per cent of all the wine produced in Italy. The good news is quite a bit of Italian Pinot Grigio is now under screwcap. Once that domino fell, screwcaps began to appear on more storied bottles of Arneis, Vermentino, Vernaccia, Cortese, Friulano, Fiano, Nascetta, Pecorino, Ribolla Giallo, Timorasso, Verdicchio and many more.

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The subtly of Italian whites and the ethereal nature, particularly of its northern wines, suggest they mainly benefit from screwcaps that are not shaving off those precious assets at the top of the aroma and flavour chain. Add to that the attraction of not having to struggle with a corkscrew, which has given this category the boost it needs to become more mainstream.

Much is made of the romantic sound of a cork being pulled out of a bottle, but you have to be able to get the cork out for any of that to take place. When a country that speaks a romantic language switches from romantic corks to utilitarian screwcaps, you get the sense that more people care about what is inside the bottle and that’s good for everyone interested in fine wine.

Weekend wine picks

Aveleda Casal Garcia Vinho Verde N/V, Vinho Verde, Portugal

$11.99 I 87/100

UPC: 5601096208308

Screwcaps have done wonders for Casal Garcia, a delicate Vinho Verde that has blossomed without a cork. It takes guts to say no to corks in Portugal, but the result is a slightly frizzante note that lifts a green apple nose with just a whiff of lees. The almost watery attack is equally fresh with light lemon, lees, quince, and green apple. The price is a bargain. Think sushi, fish tacos, vegetarian pizza.

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MezzaCorona Pinot Grigio 2022, Veneto, Italy

$19.99 I 88/100

UPC: 8004305000088

Crisp, fresh, and light on the nose, with a mix of lemon, grapefruit, pear, and green apple notes and a thin veneer of lees to give the palate a light, creamy texture. Soft and friendly, it slides down easily with just a hint of minerality in the finish. It’s been much improved under screwcap — a solid white to pair with simple seafood, pasta, or vegetable sushi rolls.

Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2022, Martinborough, New Zealand

$31.99 I 94/100

UPC: 9421004550352

Wow, a fabulous wine that will age effortlessly under a screwcap. Te Muna Road Sauvignon is a pure expression of Sauvignon, packed full of minerality and acidity that electrifies the palate. Fresh, juicy lime leaf and passionfruit power a sophisticated, layered, complex white that stands alone in this category.

Mouton Cadet x Mathilde Rosé Merlot – Cabernet Franc – Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Bordeaux, France

$21.99 I 89/100

UPC: 878448002289

A screwcap and a makeover have given this Rosé new life. The colour is an attractive pale peony pink shade. The nose is bright and clean with delicate aromas of red fruits and fresh citrus peel. The palate is equally lively and fresh, with pear, kiwi, lemon, and grapefruit balanced by a candied strawberry undercurrent. It’s pretty avant-garde for Mouton.

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Garzón Cabernet de Corte 2020, Garzon, Maldonado, San José, Uruguay

$22.99 I 89/100

UPC: 7730951081317

Cabernet de Corte is 80 per cent Cabernet Franc, 10 per cent Tannat, 5 per cent Merlot, and 5 per cent Marselan. The secret to this wine is the styling. They preach elegance at Garzon, so expect a tight mix of red and black fruit that opens with violets and wet stone, followed by raspberries, blackberries, and green pepper, kissed with dark chocolate. There is no oak here, just pure terroir under a screwcap. We like this with roasted pork ribs on fennel and leeks or pappardelle with a wild mushroom ragu.

Calendar items

Calling all bourbon fans, the Nightingale X Woodford Collaboration Dinner is on March 13 from 7 p.m. until late. Guests will experience a variety of inventive dishes prepared to complement and accentuate the complexities of the spirit. Dishes include a Miso Whiskey Tartar, house-made giardiniera of vegetables and fresh bread, and a bold and bright Woodford Whiskey Lacquered Duck Breast with a luxurious chestnut whiskey jus. The bar team has crafted three unique cocktails to pair with each course, and in addition, guests will be guided through a spirits tasting of three Woodford Reserve expressions with Brown Forman Spirits Specialist Joel Virginillo.

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•••

L’Abattoir, distinguished for its excellence in wine programming, has announced a series of winemaker dinners in partnership with wines of B.C.. The series starts with the North Okanagan Winemakers dinner on Wednesday, March 20, at 6 p.m., featuring wines from Tantalus Vineyards, Quails’ Gate Estate Winery, and Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery. Guests will be treated to a six-course menu, expertly paired with two wines from each winery, served in L’Abattoir’s Private Dining Room. Winemakers and winery principals will dine with the dinner guests at communal tables while introducing their wines throughout the evening. Tickets are $195 plus taxes and gratuities, and the menu is available on the L’Abattoir website.

B.C. wine of the week

Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir – B Field Blend McLean Creek Road Vineyard 2022, Okanagan Falls, B.C.

$31.39 I 91/100

UPC: 626990389538

The Pinot plantings at McLean Creek Road Vineyard are a mix of Burgundian clones. When winemaker Chris Carson planted the B field in 2017, the new block received three Dijon clones (115, 667, 777) and cuttings from an unknown clone from the designated old block site. The goal was to be able to harvest a Field Blend each year. The B Field Blend is made with four clones, all picked on the same day and co-fermented in a more traditional Field Blend. The blend in 2022 is magic. It’s aged in older neutral French oak barrels for 11 months before bottling. Compared to the warmer 2020 release, this wine is fresher and amazingly juicy. Seamless and delicious from front to back, this is fun to drink with soft tannins, ripe cherries, a dusting of barnyard, and a long, silky finish. I love the finesse and simplicity of this wine. Super value.

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Value wine of the week

Gabriel Meffre Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Cuvée Saint-Vincent, Côtes du Rhône, Rhone Valley, France

$18.99 I 89/100

UPC: 3142920026306

Always a fresh mix of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette, Marsanne, Viognier and Bourboullec that opens with floral blossoms and herbal lees notes. A delicate lees seeds into a finely spiced, lightly savoury palate full of light pear, green fig and citrus flavours. The finish is dry and elegant; it is a perfect wine for scallops, sole or prepared halibut. Super value.

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