The British wine trade virtually ignores Sauternes and many other sweet wines. Admittedly an increasing proportion of grapes grown in Bordeaux’s Sauternes region are now being made into dry wines. Supermarket sherries (with The Wine Society one below) are still one of the UK’s best wine buys, despite recent duty hikes.
STRONG
Sánchez Romate, Don José Medium Dry Oloroso NV Sherry (17.5%)
Sad to see such a well-aged wine from an old family company being sold so cheaply. Rich start, dry finish.
£9.95 The Wine Society
González Byass, Tesco Finest Aged Fino NV Sherry (15%)
Benefiting from six rather than the usual four years in the solera, so it’s more interesting but arguably a little less refreshing than many a fino. Tangy, dry, pungent and great value.
£6.50 a half Tesco
Lustau, Torre del Oro Palo Cortado NV Sherry (19%), Dry Oloroso NV Sherry (20%) and Don Gaspar Amontillado NV Sherry (18.5%)
Ridiculous value for these dry, long oak-aged treasures. The Palo Cortado is slightly richer and more concentrated than the other two.
£13.49 Waitrose
The Symingtons, Tesco Finest 10 Year Old Tawny NV Port (20%)
Reddish tawny. Not that much nose and a little bit hot and aggressive but, chilled, this would be wonderful with cheese. Great value.
£8.75 a half Tesco
Niepoort, Unfiltered LBV 2019 Port (15.5%)
Vigorous deep crimson. Nutty, interesting nose. Unexpectedly smooth all the way through until the very end which is dry and has fine tannins. Notes of balsam and roses. Could well withstand blue cheese, but would also be interesting with Christmas pudding.
£19.99 Waitrose
Quinta do Noval, Unfiltered Single Vineyard Late Bottled Vintage 2017 Port (19.5%)
Racy, claret-appreciate and refined. Persistent. Proper, hand-crafted — or rather foot-trodden — estate wine.
£21 The Wine Society, £23.30 Master of Malt, £27 Ocado, and, from £29, from other merchants
Quinta da Romaneira, 10 Year Old Tawny NV Port (19.5%)
Nutty and thoroughly satisfying. Very clean, vibrant and fresh. This won’t weigh you down at the end — or beginning? — of a meal.
£29.50 Lea & Sandeman
Kopke, Colheita Tawny Port 2005 (20%)
Waitrose have a range of Kopke’s delicious wood-aged ports. Colheitas are a blend of wines from the same year. This one, with 110g/l residual sweetness, is appreciate liquid Christmas with its nuts and spices.
£31.99 Waitrose
Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos 2012 Port (20%)
Top quality single-quinta vintage port continues to offer great value. Peppery, spicy and floral. Just a great, pure vintage-style port that you could serve this Christmas if you decanted it. Great stuff!
£32.90 Noble Green Wines (on sale) and, from £30, many other independents as well as Tesco
Blandy’s, Colheita Verdelho 2010 Madeira (20%)
Really exciting medium-dry, Atlantic island wine that will last for ever in an opened bottle. To be savoured before, after or during holiday meals.
£70 The Wine Society
Sandeman 30 year old NV Port (20%)
An old favourite supersmooth mix of orange peel and dried fruits that’s not overpriced considering its age.
£68 The Crafty Vintner, £70.10, £71.99 The Bottle Club Vin, and many others
Barbeito, Single Cask 13E, Colheita 2007 Madeira (19%)
From a little plot of these precious vines discovered by winemaker Ricardo Diogo. Notes of orange peel and dried fruits with a beautiful balance between sweetness and acid. A bit appreciate the most delicate, refreshing liquid marmalade. On the palate, this goes on and on.
£62 for 50cl, Valhalla’s Goat, Glasgow, Cork of the North (on sale at £30)
SWEET
Ch Broustet, Tesco Finest Sauternes 2018 Barsac (13.5%)
A steal for an oak-aged wine made from fully nobly rotten, mainly Sémillon grapes. Very smooth and silky and already enjoyable. Pear syrup with just enough freshness.
£13.50 a half Tesco
Philippe et Jacques Guignard, L’Ouest de Lamothe Guignard 2010 Sauternes (13.5%)
A snip unearthed by buyer Jane Masters MW. Real weight and maturity on this wine — classic Sauternes with a little saltiness after all the sweetness.
£14.99 a half Majestic
Plaimont, St-Albert 2018 Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Pacherenc du Vic Bilh (12.5%)
Useful wine that has character and backbone and is really refreshing but definitely sweet too. A success! Appetising, classic answer to Jurançon from Armagnac country.
£22.75 Corney & Barrow
Samos Co-op, Solera Muscat NV Samos (15%)
Seventy-five per cent is from the 1995 vintage, topped up successively with younger wine from this Greek island. Lots of sweetness and peachy pleasure but it’s a bit of a challenge for the teeth.
£23 a half The Wine Society
Ch de Fargues 2001 Sauternes (14%)
Fully mature, top quality Sauternes available by the bottle and half — as rare as hen’s teeth in the UK. Owned by the Lur Saluces family, once of Yquem.
£93.20 a bottle, £49.60 a half Wilkinson Vintners
Tasting notes, scores and suggested drink dates on Purple Pages of JancisRobinson.com. International stockists on Wine-searcher.com
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