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Q. I grow many of my own transplants and have had difficulties with germination both last year and this year. Sometimes I need to re-plant twice to get seeds to sprout. What could be the problem? Is it likely the seeding mix?
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A. Many variables are involved in successful germination. They include the age of the seeds, planting mix quality, temperature, seeding depth, moisture levels and light.
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Most seeds, stored in uniformly cool, dry, dark conditions, stay viable for three years. Onions and leeks, larkspur and aster are examples of seeds that stay viable for only one or two years while cabbage family vegetables, cucumber, snapdragon and sunflower seeds will remain viable for around five years.
Some gardeners sow first into a commercial seeding mix and then transplant the young seedlings into a heftier mix for growing into transplant size. I save time and labour by seeding directly into containers that will hold the seedlings through transplant size.
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For this I use two-litre beverage cartons that friends save for me. I cut one side out to create the container. Any pot with a similar depth of around nine cm will do.
In this seeding method I use an all-purpose potting mix combined with a more substantial, weightier mix or potting soil that is also designated as all-purpose. The seedlings, thinned, stay in place until transplanting.
Most seeds need warm soil temperatures to germinate in a timely fashion. They may rot in cold, wet planting mixes. Most seed packets give recommended seeding depth and approximate days to germination. Keep the seeding medium evenly and consistently but modestly moist.
Some seeds, like violas and pansies, germinate best in darkness. I usually cover their containers with newspaper before laying a plastic sheet (saved shopping bags) over top for moisture retention.
Other seeds (petunia, campanula) germinate most successfully when exposed to light. These seeds are just barely covered or lightly pressed onto dampened soil surface, and given a loose, clear plastic “humidity tent” covering.
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